Let's Control It

Hello friends,

i got my watering system up and running and it works actually very nice. But theres one big thing that makes me unhappy, everything is actual made to work but it didnt look good. Cables over cables- all done Provisional....
So i had fought a bit if it is possible for me to create a little PCB that can work for me and for you. I dont want to make a PCB that has only 1 simple function it has to be minimalistic but multifunctional. So here i want to make some suggestions:

1. compatible to the most used ESPs (Esp8266 Mini D1, Esp32 Mini D1, ESP32 NodeMCU)
2. PCB must fit in a Electronic box 80x80 or 100x100 (you know these things you have mostly in your garage for 230V connections)
3. Solarcharger IC (I Love the tp4056- these tp56xx or so are bad)
4. Battery Holder for 18650 Cell
5. universal Pinouts so that we can use Easy the Sensors we need. 1-3 in the most cases.

What i can and what i need:

I can make the layout and the easy Stuff but i`m not the proffessional PCB maker, so who will help by this Project?
I would make a open Project over EasyEDA so that everyone can join.

Someone interested?

Greez Obstsalat

I can help you check for some issues in your design before you try to order.

What do you plan on using? A bare ESP module, or some board like a NodeMCU which you solder on the board with through-hole pinheaders?
JLCPCB can place the SMT parts for you so it will look really professional.

Just as a tip, try to use 'basic' parts as most as possible when selecting parts.
"Extended" parts will cost you 3 - 4 $ extra per reel of parts as handling costs for the operator to place the reel of parts.
When you decide to use the bare ESP module, I strongly suggest you to use one with an IPEX antenna connector so you can use cheap patch antennas or SMA connector. This way you can orient the antenna for optimal reception and are not limited to where you need to place the board.

Hi,
i think it is the best for everyone when the the parts are Plug n play, so is something broken you can take it out and place an new device.
I think the best solution is here to use Pinheaders.
And with the Antenna "Problem" everyone can choose the best situation for him.
In my garden i use normal ESPs with onboard Antenna over a range of 50-100Meters ,so if there is someone with range problem he can just pick an ESP with SMA /Ipex.
I try to make a little PCB today and Upload it here so than it is easier to understand what my idea is.

But a the moment thank you for Help.

So here is my first impression for theEASYboard. 100x100
I dont know what GPIOs are the most sensible. I hope for some suggestions. Please this is only a preview!!!
Question/Answere:

Why you use a Headphone jack?

-The Headphone Jack is for an easier connection to my Soil Moisture Sensors. I use Analog but with this u can use I2C Sensors too because it is a 4 pin Jack.

What kind of Debug Switch is there?

-it is a programmable GPIO pin to deactivate Deepsleep.

I think this Board would support the most used ESPs

I suggest to move a bit more away from the corners of the board
And maybe also try to match it with those cheap DIN rail enclosures.

I learned the hard way that you better first try to find a cheap and well available enclosure and then try to fit the board into it.
You also want to fixate the board in the enclosure and most boards have either screw holes in the corners or some 'islands' in the bottom on which a board may rest.

And about the boards with antenna on board. Keep in mind that you may want to leave the antenna free in the air, so keep copper traces away from where the antenna may be.

The idea of having rows of GND and power line is a good idea, but rather keep the spacing between them a multiple of 1/10" so you can use normal pinheaders to plug into them.
And I think you should have the GPIO pin between GND and 3V3.
This way you can easily use dual row headers to either combine 3V3 or GND with the pin.

I would also add lots of 4-pin headers for I2C in various pin orders.

Best pins to use, see: https://espeasy.readthedocs.io/en/lates ... /GPIO.html

And to be honest, for a new board design, I wouldn't go for ESP8266 anymore.
Better go for ESP32-S3 or C3.
There are lots and lots of board available for those and they are really cheap these days.


Regarding board design:
Please use thicker traces for power lines and GND.
There is enough space for it and you can thank me later as it really does improve stability.
Also add some 2-pin headers as close as you can to any spot where you may want to mount a sensor.
This allows you to add some 100nF capacitor connected to the 3V3 and GND (or 5V)
And on the output of the DC/DC module you should also add some spots for a few capacitors (e.g. 100 uF)

Then you can later add some copper pour on the top layer connected to the GND net and on the bottom plane connected to the 3V3 net.

Hello again....

so i had a little bit of time and try to make a new Version of the board.
I dont know if a made everything right but i give you the Gerber files.
It will be very Nice if you say what i can make better.


Have nice day, Obstsalat

First idea when looking at the render you posted is that it might be really hard to insert pin headers or wires when those green sockets are present.
I personally use these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000259 ... 79d2AHCfSY
They allow to pull out the part where you screw in the wires and then just insert them.
The 3.81 mm spacing version does allow for a relatively wide range of wire gauges to be used.

Also you have a lot of unused rows of headers under the ESP boards.
I assume they are for using various form factors of the ESP boards?
Sill a good idea to at least have some markings for pins like 5V, 3V3, GND as there are some variations of boards which may seem to fit but haven't the same pinout.

The solder pads for the 18650 can be made a bit larger to the edge of the board, so you can use both through-hole and SMT mounted battery clips.

And maybe not a bad idea to add room for a switch (or jumper) to disconnect the battery when desired.
Otherwise the battery will get discharged and those 18650 batteries are better left in the battery clip as their insolation will otherwise get damaged, which is quite dangerous with such cells.

Hello,

TD-er wrote: ↑26 Jun 2023, 19:37

First idea when looking at the render you posted is that it might be really hard to insert pin headers or wires when those green sockets are present.
I personally use these: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000259 ... 79d2AHCfSY
They allow to pull out the part where you screw in the wires and then just insert them.
The 3.81 mm spacing version does allow for a relatively wide range of wire gauges to be used.

They look good but i have here a Space problem, I actually going out of a Waterproof Case for electric cablemanagement.
https://cdn.hornbach.de/data/shop/D04/0 ... 184751.pdf
I have there only a mounting space for 83x83x55mm.
So actual i have so the option to connect up to 12Devices if these only need 1 Wire for GPIO. If it is too much then i can change it to a smaller amount of GPIOs and use these Screw Terminal connectors that you suggested.
Here i need your suggestions what is useful. These Spring Clamps that i used can take cables up to 1mm², i think thats enough for the most applications.

Also you have a lot of unused rows of headers under the ESP boards.
I assume they are for using various form factors of the ESP boards?
Sill a good idea to at least have some markings for pins like 5V, 3V3, GND as there are some variations of boards which may seem to fit but haven't the same pinout.

Yeah i think for the most applications that these Pin-arrays are the best to get more ESP-Variants connected.
Actual the are only for:
-ESP 32 Mini
-ESP 32 s2 Mini
-ESP 32 NodeMCU Dev Kit

I will correct the Board markings. I didnt search for every Board that is availlable but for the listed Boards the pins should be the same in every Revision.

The solder pads for the 18650 can be made a bit larger to the edge of the board, so you can use both through-hole and SMT mounted battery clips.

I try to correct it. Maybe 5x5 to 8x8?

And maybe not a bad idea to add room for a switch (or jumper) to disconnect the battery when desired.
Otherwise the battery will get discharged and those 18650 batteries are better left in the battery clip as their insolation will otherwise get damaged, which is quite dangerous with such cells.

I think thats a good idea will add these, but extra for those Safety i used a tp4056 with a Protection IC.

The extra pads for the SMT battery compartment can be just extended to the side of the board.
It is more that you need something to solder on for SMT versions.
It might be that those metal flaps even need to be shorted to fit in the enclosure you have in mind. (or to prevent any shorts on the battery)

The TP4056 is not a "magic" chip as there still will be some leak current.
So the discharge while still being connected will be more than the self-discharge of the cells.



About the enclosure you have in mind.
These have M20 or M25 "wartels" (not sure about the English word for it), which need to be screwed in.
So they do have a specific height where the cables enter the enclosure and also will be taking up space on the inside.
It looks like there isn't a lot of room left for the PCB, so any cables entering the box will have to be peeled up and then bent into position.
So I do understand why the screw terminals I suggested may not be the best choice.
However the ones you picked require the board to be fixed or else there will be a lot of cursing to connect them all.
I strongly suggest to make some wooden test board to try and fit inside that enclosure and try to route the cables you planned to it.
Make the board a bit thicker than your PCB as you end up with solder pins on the back which will lift it.
So something like 5 or 6 mm wood to try and fit it.
Maybe also some bump on it where the parts will be located.

Hello, i actualized the Board.
I think theres more potential but at the moment i try to set up the suggestions you have made.
I will get the Case and will try it with the wood plate.
A little question, is the power from the imntegrated voltage regulator enough for the most "standard" applications? I thought today about an option to add an Sepic converter.

Have a nice day